Fencing frequently asked questions.

What is the maximum height you can legally erect a garden fence?

Answer = 2 meters (6.5ft) is generally the height limit for back garden fencing. However this can vary and if unsure its best to check with local council. Planning permission is usually needed for anything higher. Note that this is total height inclusive of if trellis is added.

For front garden fencing 1 meter is the limit if it is adjoining a public path or road. This is for visibility reasons.

How long will my wooden fence last?

Answer = This will depend on the type of fencing, treatment, exposure, correct installation and maintenance. For timber posts it is expected they last for up to 15-20 years assuming good quality pressure treated timber is used and suitable thickness (its best to use 4×4 posts as opposed to 3×3 for high fencing). Ideally fence posts should be set in with concrete unless used on agricultural land to protect base of posts from rot.

Additionally only the timber posts should be in contact with the ground, all other timber including panels should be suspended above ( even if only slightly) in order to prevent excessive moisture contact and early rot (if using concrete kick boards/gravel boards then these can be in contact with no issues).

Make sure to use new, fully treated timber which is designed to resist rot and to prolong the life of the fencing it is good practice to paint/preserve the fencing every 3-4 years.

Another thing to consider is exposure. If your fence is exposed to higher winds (open land, fields etc) then it will take more force from strong winds. In these situations its best to chose fencing to counter the elements. For instance Hit and Miss fencing with leaves gaps for the wind to pass through, fence panels that are designed for wind to pass though rather than trying to hold it back. Stronger posts like concrete, posts set closer together so less force on each one are all good options.

How long will my concrete fencing last?

Answer= Fences constructed using concrete posts will in general last a lot longer than wooden fencing as rot becomes a non issue with posts (posts are usually the first thing to go on wooden fencing). They are more expensive but you get what you pay for. Coupled with concrete gravel boards you will have little issue with the fencing lasting and very little maintenance, the fence panels will eventually need replacing 15-20 years later but due to the posts and gravel boards being sturdy, this is normally simply a matter of lifting old panels out and putting new ones in. Very low maintenance.

Additionally you could also construct the entire fence with concrete by stacking gravel boards on top of each other to the desired height.

Featheredge/ continuous fencing(non panel fencing) can also be constructed using concrete posts which massively improves the lifespan of these type of fences as if constructed properly only the concrete posts are in contact with the ground and if after 15-20 years the timber needs replacing, the posts should be fine making the cost of repairs much faster and less costly.

How long does it take to install fencing?

Construction times vary depending on fence type, ground condition, weather, existing boundary and other variables. D.E.P fencing try to give fairly accurate estimates of required time needed based on previous jobs done. We prefer to never leave any boundaries down over weekends and plan accordingly.

As general guidelines these are estimates based on good ground/weather.

10 meters = 1 day, 50 meters = 3-5 days (would seek to start work on a Monday so fence is up before weekend. 100 meters = 7-9 days. These estimates are based on featheredge and panel fencing. Post and Rail fencing and picket panels could be considerably faster especially if posts are to be knocked in opposed to concrete.

Should fence posts be concreted in or not?

In general it is best to concrete posts in for sturdiness and rot protection of posts. There are occasions where this isn’t required or allowed though. For instance concrete isn’t usually allowed to be used in agricultural areas except for gates so knocked in posts are best.

Sometimes people may want a more temporary fence to mark off a boundary whilst a hedge is growing. It makes sense to knock these posts in as well, not just for cost purposes but also you won’t want a lot of concrete underground if you are seeking to grow shrubbery there.

If money is an issue knocked in posts are an option to keep costs down (both on materials and labour) although i wouldn’t recommend this on any fence above 1 meter high as wind will loosed the posts over time. For this i would also recommend windproof fencing like picket or hit-and-miss which allows wind to pass though protecting against loosening posts.

Depending on location and ground condition, there are alternative options. If a wall is present and the boundary needs raising, then posts can be bolted on the wall and built from that. Also posts can be bolted into metal plates which are bolted down into concrete.

What type of fencing is best?

The type of fencing you want should match your requirements, preferences and budget.

If for instance you require privacy in a back garden with low maintenance, then high panel fencing preferably in concrete slotted posts and gravel boards is ideal since you don’s have to worry about rot and panels are easy and cheap to replace should any get damaged.

If you need a sturdy fence to withstand winds in a more exposed area then concrete posts are best suited either with panels or continuous fencing like featheredge or closeboard fencing.

Featheredge or picket fencing are suited well for boundary lines which aren’t always straight lines and can curve or take multiple corners/ recesses. These fences aren’t in specific lengths unlike panels so can be build to fit any distance with little waste of materials.

With steep inclines concrete gravel boards are recommended as part of it will be buried underground as the ground raises along it. These gravel boards will cope will with the moisture and keep timber safe from rot. Additionally concrete gravel boards act as great retainers to stop gravel/dirt/weeds from spreading to your property from other side of fencing. This is especially useful if you have differing garden heights.

For areas you don’t need privacy but need to mark the boundary then post and rail or picket fencing is a good option as both have gaps in the fencing allowing visibility whilst clearly defining the boundary.

If money is a bit tight, there are options for secure fencing without costing too much. Waney/Lap panels are a cheaper alternative especially when used with wooden posts. Post and rail fencing is very cost effective as a boundary and can be coupled with chicken wire to keep animals out.

For these seeking a bit more style in there garden, there are many types of fence panels. windproof arched european panels, integrated trellis panels and many other types of panels are available to consider.

Finally we also install Metal fencing which is very strong/virtually no maintenance and secure.

Is it possible to repair my fence rather than replace it?

Whilst most people prefer to replace a fence when it begins to rot or start to break due to wind damage, it is possible in many cases to repair the fence at a fraction of the cost if you cannot immediately afford to replace it.

Broken panels will generally need to be replaced however wooden posts can often be replaced without needing to take down the whole fence. Often posts can be corrected using repair spurs – 4ft high concrete posts which bolt onto existing wooden posts and concreted into ground.

It is best to let a professional look at the broken fencing first though and give their expertise on what to do. Often the damage may seem small but on closer inspection there may be a bigger issue arising. Likewise, the damage may seem severe however it might be an easy fix.